Folkstyle Wrestling/Printable version

Folkstyle Wrestling

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What is Folkstyle Wrestling

Folkstyle Wrestling is the form of Wrestling that is practiced mostly in American high schools and colleges. It is also known as collegiate wrestling. The object of folkstyle wrestling is to pin your opponent. Failing this, you want to get as many points as possible.

Folkstyle scoring focuses mainly on changes in control. Taking an opponent down to the mat, escaping from or reversing control, or turning an opponent's back to the mat are all scoring situations. This differs from other styles such as Freestyle or Greco Roman, which don't encourage escapes or reversals.

The scoring for folkstyle wrestling is as follows: expose an opponents back to the mat for 3 seconds at a 45 degree angle or less, score 2 points. Hold him for 5 seconds at 45 degrees or less, and you earn 3 points . In a takedown, once you gain control of your opponents hips and they have 3 points of balance (arms and legs) on the mat, you earn 2 points. If they can reverse the position so that they have control of your hips, they earn 2 points. If they simply get away so that you both are standing with no one in control, it is called an escape and they earn one point.


The ObjectiveEdit

There are three basic victory conditions in a wrestling match:

  • Pinning your opponent (Win By Fall)
  • Scoring more points than your opponent in the time alotted (Win By Decision)
  • Scoring 15 points more than your opponent at any point during the match (Win By Technical Fall)
    • In team tournaments and meets, different points are awarded to the team, depending on whether or not a pin occurred, how large the point spread was at the end of the match one.

The FormatEdit

  • Three periods
    • Can be different amount of time for periods depending on the league
      • For College the Norm is usually 3-2-2
      • For High School the Norm is usually 2-2-2
      • For Modified and Youth the Norm is usually 1-1-1

The Three PositionsEdit

  • Neutral
  • Referee's Position
    • Top
      • Optional/Freestyle
    • Bottom

Ways to ScoreEdit

There are 5 ways to score-

  • Takedown- Defined as taking opponent from feet to mat. This is worth 2 points.
  • Escape- Defined as escaping opponent's control and facing him. This is worth one point.
  • Reversal- Defined as coming from mat, and taking opponent to mat, in a single move/move combo, which is worth 2 points.
  • Nearfall- Points gained when opponent's back/shoulders break the 45 degree plane with respect to the mat for a duration of time. A two-four count awards you 2 points, then a 5 count awards you 3 points.
  • Riding Time-Defined as being in control on the mat, for a long period of time, usually used in collegiate wrestling. If one wrestler has more than 1 minute more of riding time than his opponent, he is awarded 1 point at the end of regulation time.


  • Stalling
    • Fleeing the mat

  • locking hands around waist on ground without 2points of body

Note:(When a wrestler lifts another off the mat, it is the lifting wrestler's responsibility to ensure the other's safe return to the mat.)

  • Locking hands strictly around an opponent's waist while on the mat.
  • Potentially Dangerous
    • Choking
    • Full Nelson
    • Body Figure Four
    • Head Scissors
    • Chicken wing (extended past a certain point)
    • Arm across the back above 90 Degrees
  • Unsportsmanlike conduct
    • Swearing
    • Striking
    • Unnecessary Roughness
    • Grabbing of the singlet
    • Throwing your headgear
    • physically hurting your opponent for revenge of previous match
    • Smack Talking
    • Pulling opponents head gear off or making it an obstruction of view

Basic Wrestling Strategy

  • Finding Your Philosophy, Finding Your style:

Finding your style is one of the most important things to consider in wrestling. It will deteremine your stance, the moves you use, the strategy you choose, and the success you have. Your style should be based on a number of different factors, many of which will be discussed later in this book. However right now there are a few basic things to consider, and should serve as a guideline to help you come up with a basic strategy.

  1. What are your strengths? Are you a great athlete? Are you really strong? Are you extremely bright? A great athlete will be able to do more complicated moves, whereas someone who is really strong might want to focus on a few basic power moves. Someone who is extremely bright might try to outmaneuver their opponent into an advantageous position.
  2. What are your weaknesses? Do you have trouble with balance? Do you have trouble being aggressive? Are you slower than other wrestlers? This book aims to help you eliminate most of your weaknessess; however, it is impossible to eliminate all of your weaknesses. In a match, you should do everything possible to avoid dealing with your weaknessess, then in practice, you should work to eliminate these weaknesses.
  • High Vs. Low Percentage moves
  • The Clock
  • When to be Aggressive

Note: Richard Salamone has generously agreed to let us use any of his posts from the forum, in this section I will put relevant post, which will be edited into book form once the whole book has been outlined.

What moves to useEdit


I am not sure where you are at in your training, but before focusing on "moves", learn the so-called basic movements of wrestling. These prepare you for learning "moves."

With regard to what is most efficient and most sensible to learn, that does depend on body build (e.g., relatively tall or short), speed (e.g., quick or not), how much of your training you are willing to devote (e.g., BJJ and MMA types will have different goals, e.g., to perhaps mostly defend takedowns vs. initiate leg shot and to also develop some pummeling/cliniching proficiency), etc.

Ultimately, for maximum success, you need to be exposed to a wide variety of technique primarily to be familiar enough so that it is not a surprise and you can defend against it. You don't, however, need to develop zillions of techiques to be proficient and, in fact, as you are learning, it is my opinion, that it is wiser to focus on a few techniques and set-ups for them and work the heck out of them than "be a jack of all trades and a master of none." A good double leg, single leg, a few good tie-ups, pummeling/clinch (with attacks such at front headlock), and defense will get you pretty far.

You don't have to be "unique" to be successful, only good, and good at the basics is a good place to start to be good.

Lee Kemp was a three (I think) time world freestyle champ with a good single, good ties, and good defense. Boring to watch, yes, but he could get that single on anybody at least once during a match and would typically win by a point or two or three in generally very low scoring matches (in world competition).

Good luck in your training.

Stance and Movement

  • Purpose:

Having a good stance is one of the most important skills to have in wrestling. As you will learn, a good stance is vital to your success. Throughout the book, we will be referring back to your stance and movement, so make sure that you master it now. A good stance will allow you to both defend against an opponents attack and initiate your own offensive moves. The finer points of the stance will be decided by your wrestling style (which you should already be formulating, based on the information in the last chapter) but the basic stance remains the same. Your knee's should be bent (to varying degrees based on style), your head should be up (more on this in the next chapter), and your weight should be distributed evenly throughout your foot (more on this in the next chapter as well). You may think that your stance is supposed to be comfortable... It's not. In order for you to get the maximum amount of both offense and defense, you are going to have to stand in an uncomfortable position. Figuring out your ultimate wrestling strategy will be discussed near the end of the book, but for now it is best to master all the different stances, so as to keep your options open. The different choices that you have during your stance include:

  1. Staggered Stance Or Square Stance
  2. Straight Back or Curled Back
  3. Forward Lean or Regular Lean
  4. High Stance or Low Stance
  5. Fingers Forward or Palms Forward

Let's go through all of these options in detail:

  1. Staggered or Square Stance
  • Movement
    • Don't Cross Feet
    • Lead Leg Movement in Staggered Stance
    • Forward Lean Versus Regular, Movement Changes

Position and Control

Position is an essential topic in wrestling. Almost all counters to moves and the effectiveness of these counters is based on position.


  • Hips Higher Than Theirs
  • Getting Behind or Squaring off
  • Controlling The Hips
  • Controlling the Center of Balance
  • Don't go down to your hip
  • Keep the Head up at all times

Basic Movements

  • Changing Levels
  • Back Arch
  • Four Takedown Movements
  • Spinning
  • Hip Heist/Reverse Hip Heist
  • Sit Out
  • Sprawl
  • Back Step

1) Position: You have probably heard the expression "location, location, location" in real estate. That doesn't mean anything in wrestling. The wrestling (or grappling) corollary is "position, position, position." Indeed, I would argue (simply to make the point academically as, of course, I do teach "technique") that there is no such thing as "technique," only increasingly good positions variously strung together with movement that increase the favorability of your being able to control your opponent along the way. Sticking with the context of takedowns on this post, #1 would be to maintain a good stance and position on your feet as you approach and move with your opponent. Between this and #'s 2, 3, and 4 (and whatever number defense will involve—OK I might cheat and go beyond 7), if your opponent can't effectively initiate an attack and score on you, because your position, movement, attacking, and tie-ups/clinching is very effective, the worst situation is a draw (if we are talking solely takedowns); and if you have some of the other 7 points down, you should be able to score yourself.

The main points here would be a) knees bent, back angled slightly (not exactly vertical, not horizontal) with your chest, knee, and ball of foot roughly aligned, b) generally being in a staggered stance although you need to be able to move in a square stance, c) head up, visual attention directed to your opponent's chest, d) weight mostly on the balls of your feet, equally distributed between each foot, and e) hands out in front, palms facing each other (to keep elbows in).

Along these lines, a) learn one side first (e.g., lead right or left, I like left because that is also my boxing lead so I keep left leg forward in MMA so I don't clue my opponent as to whether a striking or takedown attack is coming, b) focus on different techniques depending upon whether your opponent leads the same or mirrored leg to you versus switching your lead if your opponent "doesn't cooperate" by leading the leg you hope he leads (e.g., with my left leg lead, I attack double or outside single to my opponent's left side if his left leg is lead or I go to head inside single on the right if his right leg is lead; that being said, eventually, you want to develop some competence with the other leg being lead but first develop competence on one side), and c) if you do MMA, STILL first learn the traditional wrestling stance and way of attacking so you learn to properly and consistently learn to lower your level on attack.

2) Movement: Position is not static but fluid. The trick is to move while maintaining good position, minimizing openings favorable for your opponent to attack, and maximizing your ability to quickly and effectively attack your opponent. A) don't cross your feet, b) take small, short, low steps to be able to initiate an offensive or defensive maneuver quickly (for at least half of the time your foot is off the ground (i.e., moving downward from the top of the arc of your step) you can't redirect your movement unit it makes contact with the mat—and that is a clue to a good time to initiate an attack on your opponent), and c) don't let your feet get too close together as you step.

3) Initiating Attacks: A) lower your level simultaneously with your set-up (but lower level before your transition in so your trajectory is into your opponent, not downward and into the mat), b) your hips lower but the angle of your back remains about the same and your head remains up, eyes open, directing your visual attention to your opponent all the way in (typically towards his chest), c) lean forward slightly prior to initiating your attack (just as you would if you are preparing for a sprint vs. starting a jog), d) don't back up with your body or hands before you attack (a common mistake; as I lower my level my weight is subtly shifting forward before I step in), d) consider moving your hands to your opponent's legs a millisecond before you step in with the reason being that smaller muscles can't be recruited for movement quicker and more deceptively than larger muscles and assist in more stealthily attacking (think of the cartoon analogy where the character punches and his arm stretches out "pulling" the rest of his body after), e) hand movement needs to be linear (from where they are to where they need to be; shortest distance...quickest), most typically striking straight out, elbows in (think "Alien's mouth" analogy), f) don't drag your rear foot on attacks utilizing the penetration step, g) your speed and continued momentum into your opponent are, in part, predicated on quickly following up with your rear foot instead of having it "hang out there" (your rear foot should "catch up" to a frame a millisecond behind your knee making contact with the mat; think simultaneous will help you here), h) don't blink your eyes but keep your visual attention on your target the whole way in (you would be amazed how many people blink or close their eye when attacking), i) on any penetration step attack, momentum CONTINUES through your opponent so your finish must transition immediately and logically (i.e., the particular finish for the particular position you end up with relative to your opponent's initial defensive maneuver); your goal is not simple to "land in front of your opponent" but to continue moving through him.

4) Tie-ups and clinch and set-ups: Your ability to control your opponent while on your feet is predicated on your ability to move him and to keep him in unfavorable position to attack you and position favorable for you to attack. Set-ups are important (e.g., head pop, arm post, drag, etc.) but being able to physically manipulate your opponent so they are unable to attack your effectively is king. A) developing proficiency with pummeling, underhooks, 2-on-1, PROPERLY utilized collar tie, etc. is crucial. Against high caliber opponent's a simple forehead tap, quick hand movements to distract him, moving myself, are likely of little utility. It's not about how much you move yourself (which you actually generally want to be economical to maintain your own good position) but how effectively you move your opponent and you have to make contact to move a good opponent. B) associated with this, it is crucial to be able to logically and fluidly transition from on tie or clinch position to another so that your opponent is continually preoccupied by having to break your tie and control. A secret to this is to become proficient in controlling and moving your opponent's head in the process of pummeling, clinch, and ties. It would take a separate post on pummeling and clinch to get into the details of all of this. Suffice to say competitive pummeling is NOT just underhook and overhook arms swimming back and forth with your opponent.

5) Think high or low in attacking. You asked, basically, about favorite techniques. Before I get into that, I would suggest first conceptualizing your attacking in two domains, low and high. "Low" is attacking below the waist, mostly with your hands, and "high" is attacking the waist and above with your hands and, paradoxically, attacking the legs with your legs. For example, (hand to) leg attacks are typically successfully done when your opponent's level is relatively high either because his level was spontaneously that way or because of your manipulating him with a tie-up or set-up. Sometimes a person is just too darn well defended to easily attack his legs, most typically, at least in part, because his level is relatively low. When his level is too low to attack his legs (with my hands), his head is usually low enough to attack (snap down or snap to front headlock). When I am doing this and his level gets higher, either the legs become more open for a leg attack or I can do leg-to-leg attacks such as inside and outside trips or I can throw. Breaking this down to the most basic level to learn, I am first trying for doubles, head outside singles, and high head inside singles. If my opponent is to low for me to attack his legs successfully, I know his head is low enough to attack (snap) to a front headlock. Instead of getting frustrated with continued unsuccessful leg attacks, I simply transition to attacking the head. If he defends this successfully, his head is going up as is his level, at least to some degree, so I focus on attacking the legs...and on and on. The upshot of this is that against high caliber opponents, you can't depend on success with "just leg shots." Even if your front headlock is poor with regard to scoring, you need to have proficiency at least to a level to threaten your opponent into more favorable position to attack his legs. I hope that I am getting the notion of "back and forth" or "high and low" across adequately.

6) Basic seven movements: You asked about the "favorite seven." The so-called basic seven movement skills (although I sometimes see somewhat different numbers associated with this) of USA wrestling are key. These movements/skills are the foundation for good wrestling.

7) Body build/technique and strategy match: Your body type, in my view, dictates, at least to some degree, the type of techniques and positions you favor and those to avoid. For example, being small, my game is to prioritize attacking my opponent's legs as, usually, my level is (more comfortably) lower. When I can't do that, I go to the head. With one of the guys at Absolute Jiu Jitsu, who is tall, I try to get him to tie up, get underhooks, and attack the head as his priority. Because of his height, he will have a bit more difficulty attacking his opponent's legs so I try to have him, for example, work underhooks (jacking his opponent up with the underhook because he is taller vs. sagging down with it as I do because I am smaller than my opponents) with good head position. Being smaller than my opponents, it is very crucial for me to avoid an overhook position to my taller opponent's underhook; a taller individual, however, has some more realistic options with an overhook. Generally, with little people, tie-ups involve sagging; with taller people jacking their shorter opponent's up. The upshot of this is your base techniques, tactics, and strategy must be rationally related to your body build, physical attributes (e.g., slower folks want to focus on getting good tie-ups and staying in close and not focus on trading "pinging" leg attacks from a greater range) against most opponents (and, of course, specific opponents).

8) Killer defense: When an opponent does attack, he needs to be punished for the audacity and lack of respect. Sprawling and wizzers (etc.) are important but understanding the idea of putting and keeping your attacking opponent's head underneath your abdomen or hip. This would be a long topic for another day but defense needs to be conceptualized in terms of "lines of defense." The first level is that if you are attacking and your opponent is defending, your defending is a moot point. The second line of defense is controlling the tie-up. Different tie-ups eliminate or make difficult various attacks by your opponent. In other words, learn which tie-ups prevent which of your opponent's attacks and focus on defending the ones must likely successful from that tie-up. The third line of defense not letting your opponent get past your head (learn to keep forehead contact with your opponent to "feel" his intent to attack then keep blocking with your head). If he gets past your head, the next line of defense is with your hands or arm blocking his head and/or shoulders if opponent gets by your head. This is front headlock city territory. The LAST major line of defense is when your opponent gets to your leg (of course, I'm not talking about defending various tie-ups, throws, etc., just leg attacks here). It is at this point where virtually all non-wrestlers and, frankly, most wrestlers, make mistakes. Again, getting into defense in a detailed manner is for another day but suffice to say your immediate goal is to get your opponent's head under your abdomen or hip, get out in front, pull him down and either spin behind or front headlock (all of which involve a lot of technique to be done correctly). In the process, you can torture your opponent and make him more hesitant to attack your legs. This style of defense (level 5) works BEAUTIFULLY with BJJ and submission wrestling as you can easily transition quickly to positions where you can work submissions. I am just a little squirt and I'm not even close to weighing what others do in our school but I can put a hurting on guys substantially larger with the concept of (opponent's) "head down" defense.

9) Some favorites of mine: Talking actual (takedown) attacks, my goal is to mix attacks based upon aggressive pummeling, clinching, and handfighting, including working a lot on the head then thinking "low" or "high." This "preparation" work is crucial and pays dividends. The more active your pummeling and handfighting, the more successful will be your actual attack; the converse is true as well. This may sound lame but I score most on a head outside single, then high head inside single, then double leg, at least with traditional leg attacks. However, I mix this in with frequent head snaps to a front headlock and pull my opponent down to the mat and spin behind, etc. when I have tugged his weight on his hands so he can not reach up and catch me as I come around back. For throws, which I think is an art that is fading away owing to changes in freestyle and greco rules, I like a fireman's carry (works well against relatively bigger guys who would cause me some hesitation in attacking their legs. I love arm throws and arm spins but the latter you need to cautious in finishing and repositioning quickly so you avoid a choke. I also love inside and outside trips, both of which are underutilized, in my view. Finally, I like foot sweeps (e.g., from "over and under" position while pummeling) as well as a more nontraditional foot sweep when I am in a regular stance at handfighting distance which I use to off-balance my opponent or sometimes kick my opponent's leg to a grab a head inside single.

Of course, if preparation (e.g., pummeling, handfighting) is "phase one" and attacking (e.g., "the shot") is "phase two," you still need to have a good "phase three" in terms of finishes to complete the takedown especially as your opponent responds to your attack with various defensive maneuvers. That last phase is also a whole new discussion and is rather technique or situation specific.

Basic Moves From Neutral

Basic moves from neutral in folkstyle wrestling.

Head and Arm (with an under hook and an over hook) you bring your over hook to your under hook and lock your hands while popping your hips out to the side you then pull your lock around their head to the mat.

Double leg you shoot your penetration step keeping your head to the outside you then turn them the opposite way of your head.

Single legs There are too many types of single leg shots to go over you have sweep singles and many different finishes.

Duck Unders while grappling you duck under your opponent's arm.

Shrug while grappling you "bump" your opponents arm over your head allowing you to get behind him.

Basic Moves From Top Position

  • Chop The Arm
  • Grab an Ankle
  • Far Knee, Far Ankle
  • Using Your knee to Bump

General Ideas In Top PositionEdit

do a half nelson
a cradle
do a banana split
do a bow and arrow 
do a leg tuck

Basic Moves From Bottom Position

  • Stand Up
  • Sit Out
  • Side Roll
  • Peterson Roll

Basic Offensive Moves From Referee's Position

  • Breakdowns
    • Tight waist, Far Ankle
    • Chop The Arm, Grab The Ankle.
    • Block The Knee
    • Bump
  • Rides
    • Wrist ride
  • Tilts
    • Arm chop tilt
  • Stacks
    • Sun devil

Basic Defensive Moves From Referee's Position

  • Escapes
    • Inside Stand Up
    • Sit Out, Turn In
  • Reversals
    • Switch (The Most Effective Move for 2 Points)
  • Rolls
    • Side Roll
    • Hook and Roll(From Half Nelson)

Advanced Wrestling Strategy

  • Scouting
    • Strengths/Weaknesses
      • Physical
        • Height
        • Strength
        • Reach/ etc.
      • Mental
        • Breaking Point
        • Defensive Willingness
        • Offensive Willingness
        • Wrestling "Ticks"
  • Team Vs. Personal Score
  • Referee
    • Forcing Penalties
    • Scouting The Ref
    • Getting on Their Good side
  • Changing your style to cramp their style

Size Concerns and the mount positionEdit

First, reality is, the bigger your opponent relative to you, the harder it is to take him down and mount him. Period. However, using and avoiding certain positions and techniques can maximize the probability of success and minimize the probability of getting smashed, the latter of which is definitely a bad thing when you are much smaller than your opponent.

Second, the general rule with significantly larger opponents is that anything you do needs to keep the risk low of getting caught and squelched underneath your opponent at which point certain physics and mechanics will be working hard against you.

Third, I tend to avoid my final attack as being a traditional double, outside single, or inside single leg (except for a very low single leg sometimes) takedown as it gives too much of an opportunity for a much larger opponent to smash me down simply by virtue of the size and weight difference. Those shots tend to be feigns for other attacks.

Fourth, I tend to ultimately attack the head (i.e., the head and arm or front headlock) a lot with the idea that I would rather my smaller weight be on top of a larger weight than vice versa. This is frequently set up with leg attacks (and secured as my opponent pulls his leg back, lowers his hips, or sprawls to defend).

Fifth, with regard to throws for larger opponents, a fireman's carry (if down properly) or an arm throw (but to my knees as opposed to a backstep) seems to work for me as most larger opponents tend to try to push and over power you so those two throws allow me to get underneath them very deeply, like a fulcrum (i.e., my body remains upright, not bent over more vulnerable to getting squashed), and continue their motion to the ground although it is especially crucial with a larger opponent that you keep your grips and position tight. Any slack is likely doom. And it definitely sucks when somebody 50 to 100 pounds is sprawling on and squashing you. Been there, done that.

Sixth, not exactly a throw but I like an explosive inside trip if an opponent is not outrageously larger than me.

Sixth, with regard to other types of attacks, I will occasionally, but not particularly frequently, attack a very low single to the ankle. If I get in, I am usually in decent shape. If you fail on your entry, you get squashed (the obvious risk for this particular attack). I will try drags to get to and around my opponent's body frequently which tends to be my main strategy (i.e., get around behind). Again, pinging shots against a much larger opponent is not particularly wise.

Seventh, most much larger opponent's will tend to try to over power you so having good pummeling and tie ups are crucial. However, when going against a much larger opponent, you need to modify such by learning to keep a bit more space and changing position frequently so they can't simply get a good hold on you and overpower you. Traditional chest to chest pummeling or collar tie against a much larger and stronger opponent is risky. A two on one tie, for example, is less risky.

Eighth, my defense is good, and keeping with the notion that I would rather be above, than below, a much larger opponent, I sometimes will subtly get out of position to encourage my opponent to attack, preparing for such, and then keeping the back of his head at my lower abdomen, getting to head and arm position, etc. Then I spin behind or attack a choke (and then spin behind if defended well).

Ninth, if a much larger opponent does overpower you and you are losing it, accept the situation and immediately get your guard and deal with it from there. Bigger opponent's will take you down at least sometimes regardless of your skill, etc., simply based on the size difference. Therefore, getting to guard quickly and effective, and obviously having a game from there, is crucial as you will end up underneath some larger opponents with him sitting astride of you in mount.

The Mount position

If you can, attempt to pin the opponent before he can pin you. The best way to pin an opponent is to sit astride of him in a "Schoolboy Pin" otherwise known as the "mount". This position is instinctive in humans and a very natural, common sense position to get into on an opponent. It is very popular with boys when observing them play fighting or fighting. One boy will normally sit astride of the other boy once the fight gets to the ground. Girls and women will also use this position and it is then referered to as a "Schoolgirl pin". Being able to effectively control and dominate the opponent makes this a physically strong position. Your legs are astride of him so you can control him with your legs. Sitting astride of him places his body between and underneath your buttocks allowing you to control him with your weight pressing him down to the ground. Being sat astride of your opponent places his body in your intimate personal space. You have your legs open across him so that his body is between your legs and thighs. He is underneath your genitals which rest on top of his body. Your perineum and buttocks rest astride of him and you have your anus resting on top of him. This makes this a very psychologically dominant position for both the person sitting astride and for the person being sat on beneath him. For the person on top it's like dominating and riding astride of a horse. The person underneath him is being ridden like a horse and feels totally dominated by the presence of the rider's genitals, perineum, buttocks and anus on top of him. This physically and psychologically strong position can be achieved in a variety of ways.

The easiest method of mounting your opponent is to kneel by his side, push his arms to the ground above his head and pin them to the ground. Quickly cock your leg over his body to straddle him widely with your legs and buttocks. Now, quickly lower your buttocks so as to sit down on top of him using your well spread buttocks and weight across him to hold him down. Tuck the soles of your feet into his back either side of him to stop him rolling beneath you. Open your legs widely across his body for a stable base. Sit up on him using your buttocks and perineum to hold him down as you punch him in the face. Another way to mount him is to stand astride of his body and then lower your buttocks so as to sit astride of him in a squatting position. You can stay in this position for a while if it is safe to do so but it is safer to lower your legs to the ground either side of his body so as to be sitting astride in a conventional mount upon him. Once Sitting astride of him you can lean forward onto your opponents body if you want to strangle or choke him.

When you initially sit on him the opponent will usually try to buck and roll you off of his body. You must ride him to ensure that you can remain seated on top of him. When initially riding him and when sitting on him in general you must use your powerful legs, thighs and buttocks to control the opponent's body that is trapped between them. Your buttocks should remain in contact with his body and straddle him evenly at all times whilst you are sitting on top of him. Your legs and thighs should remain open widely across him unless you need to grip his body between your legs during a particular move or to hold onto him. As you continue to ride him he will eventually tire and you will be able to settle into a comfortable seat astride of him. It is common in a fight to begin by sitting astride of the opponent's belly (low mount) for a while to gain control over him before attempting to finish him. You can also slide your buttocks and perineum up his body so as to end up sitting astride of his chest close to his face (high mount). This is a very psychologically strong position as your genitals and anus rest upon the opponent's body only centimetres from his face and strongly shows your dominance over him. You can kneel upon his outstretched arms and sit up on him as you punch, strangle or choke him beneath you.

Advanced Offensive Moves From Neutral

  • Takedowns
    • Ankle pick
    • Near ankle trip
    • Fireman's carry
    • Lateral drop
    • Duck under
    • Ankle sweep
    • Super duck
  • Setups
    • Arm Drag
    • Post
    • Counter-Attack
  • Tie-Ups
    • 2 on 1 or Russian tie
    • Under, Over
    • Single and Double Underhooks
    • Single and Double Overhooks

Fireman's carry: Begin by tying up with inside control. Next you will need to do a draw-in step (take a step backwards to draw the opponent in to you). As they step in towards you, drop to your left knee while holding on to the inside control with your left hand(DO NOT LET GO). Take your right arm and wrap it around the opponents right leg. Drop your left shoulder to the mat and sit through to a headlock.

Advanced Offensive Moves From Referee's Position

  • Top
    • Tilts
      • Cheap Tilt
      • Ball and Chain Tilt
      • tight waist tilt
      • 2 on 1 tilt
    • Stacks
    • Other
      • Ball and Chain
      • 1/4,3/4,Power, Nelson
  • Riding
    • Legs
    • Western
    • Arm Bars

Tight waist tilt-get a tight waist and drive your opponent at a 11 o'clock angle(if you have the tight waist in your right hand)while driving pull the waist and secure an arm with your other arm and get into a tight near fall position.not good for pinning but great for getting quick easy points

Riding Legs

The key to riding legs is constantly repositioning your hips! When you ride legs, or "throw legs in" you need to have excellent balance. This will be explained starting from referees position, on the left side.

1- Take your left leg and kick it between your opponents left arm and left leg, then wrap it around his left leg.

2-Using your Right Leg, do what is called a "Dig Shin." where you put your foot under your opponents shin and raise itup to keep your opponent off balance. It also acts like an emergency brake if you get thrown.


Now there are a couple moves you can work from here...

  • Guillotine

One of the best/hardest moves in wrestling. With your left leg in, use your left arm to hook his right arm. Then grab his right wrist with your right hand. Lift the arm just high enough to where you can duck your head under it, and pop it up on the other side of the arm. Release his arm with your left arm but stay on th wrist with your right. Arch back SLOWLY, while SLOWLY reaching your left arm towards his head. Once you have his head and he is on his back, let go of his wrist and connect both hands around his head. Pull his head toward you and arch into him with your hips, HARD. Stand by for the win.

  • Banana Split

A less complicated move than the guillotine. With the left leg in, reach your left arm to the inside of his right leg. Connect your right hand behind the leg with your left. Then arch backwards and roll him onto his back. Arch into him as hard as possible.

  • Inverted Spladle

This move is dangerous in the higher weights, so let the little guys stick to this one (103-140) With the left leg in, reach with your RIGHT arm inside of the right leg. Connect with your left hand in FRONT of the right leg. Roll to his back. If you lock this up correctly, and hang on tight, there is practically no way to lose, unless you are losing by 4 points and you run out of time for the pin.

  • Power Half

This is a pretty basic move. all you have to do is get both of your legs in then get in a half and hook it up with your other hand then begin powering them over.

  • Helicopter

This is a simple move where you throw the leg that is not hooked to the other side of the opponents body like your leg is the arm of a helicopter then when the opponent falls to his hip cross face him to the mat.(swing your leg as hard as possible).

Advanced Defensive Moves From Neutral

  • Sprawl Moves
    • Front Headlock Counters
    • Elbow Drag
    • "Gut Wrench"
  • If they are reaching
    • Defensive Duck Under
    • Defensive Armdrag
  • From the Counter-attack
    • Position-Specific Counter Attacks.

Advanced Defensive Moves From Referee's Position

  • Switch
  • Granby
  • Sit Out, Turn Out
  • How to chain Wrestle
  • Advanced Rolls
  • Whizzer

Training Technique


For wrestling, submission/BJJ, or MMA, I like interval training, that is, doing a workout (whatever it happens to be) at an alternating aerobic and anaerobic pace. My goal, with regard to the conditioning element of a match, is to keep up a good aerobic pace with my opponent, of course forcing him to do the same in the process, then attack (anaerobic activity pressing such also on my opponent in response to me), then go back to an aerobic pace, repeating the process throughout the match. My thinking is that the winner conditioning-wise is the individual who can recover from an anaerobic burst back to an aerobic state to prepare for the next successful anaerobic burst or attack the quickest.

So when I train for competition I may, for example, roll with somebody at a typical solid aerobic pace for one minute, be very aggressive the next 30 seconds, go back to an aerobic pace for a minute, and so on. Or your could run (jog, sprint, jog, sprint, etc.) in a similar manner. Or your could to a hard takedown drill for two minutes and jog for one, repeating the process over and over. You get the picture.

Also, keep track of how many minutes of aerobic and anaerobic activity you are doing to increase it gradually and systematically so you know for sure how your training is going. It is not just the volume of training (more is not always better as you can overtrain) but also how you train whether you are talking technique, conditioning, or strength.

I generally try to maintain a modicum of noncompetition shape for general training (learning to improve the technical aspect of my game), although there have been times over the past couple of years that has simply not been possible. I like to cycle my training for both physical and mental preparation reasons. It has been my experience that you need to avoid the same routine all year else you get burned out and fail to progress maximally. It is my understanding that lifting ought to be done with some variably in order of exercise to avoid habituating the nervous system; at least that's what I was taught at Penn State some years ago.

I think that it is wise to take (at least, depending on what you are trying to accomplish in the competitive arena) one day off per week even if you are training intensely for competition, again for both physical and mental reasons. There are some people, including those who are very good, who probably overtrain. Mimicking them because "they are champions", etc. is not necessarily the wisest thing to do as some people win in spite of (versus because of) how they train. For example, some people train (cardio or strength) like maniacs but may win owing to technical and mental factors (including because of the volume of training) although may not objectively be in maximal physiologic condition (e.g., weaker than they would have been without overtraining).

If you are training two or three times per week BJJ, wrestling, etc., I would suggest lifting on other days. As you "ramp up" your training for competition (especially serious competition) that level of training is not likely to be adequate so you will have to lift on days you are training. I think you are right on target keeping the hours between your strength and jiu jitsu training maximal (if you lift before BJJ). I lift in the morning before work and train BJJ in the evening. My view is that you will profit from improving the technical aspect of your game when you are relatively fresh and not having a major fatigue factor interfering with learning or ingraining new skills (i.e., if you are drill technique with which you are not particularly familiar or proficient while fatigued you are probably going to take longer to develop skillful technique). Being a pipsqueak and rolling with guys, some of who are twice my size, it is just too risky injury-wise to get a hard lift in before BJJ practice. If I am hurt, I cannot train or compete adequately.

One option, depending on your schedule, would be to lift after your BJJ practice if time is really tight, although not vice versa which I think is risky (when you roll in BJJ).

One thing that is crucial, I think, is to recognize that, over the long run, it is skill, not conditioning or strength, that will be the largest factor in success. That is not to say that cardio, strength, nutrition, psychological preparation, etc. are not important, just make sure that in your "training portfolio" that actual training (learning technique and sparring technique) does not become "the odd man out." "Major in the major subjects, minor in the minor subjects." The other things are to supplement, not substitute, the whole reason for what you do: BJJ.

Also, recognize when it is worthwhile to just take a day off, particularly from lifting. My experience has been that three times per week is best for most of my training cycle but that when things really ramp up for competition it is easy, simply by virtue of the volume of training to increase in the upswing in your training cycle, to get fatigued, dread practice, etc. At that point, wisdom is taking a day off from lifting (get a massage, etc.) and even consider lifting twice per week toward the end of your training cycle as you get close to competition so that the volume of doing what you will be doing in competition increases proportionally. I personally have found it helpful to lift two days per week freeweights and one day Nautilus with a trainer who busts my you-know-whats for a brutal hour (with substantial negative training). I make that guy earn his 35 bucks (none of this just yapping motivational crap)! If I feel fatigued or start to feel burned out, I chuck one of the freeweight days.

When training now, I like to go on a short run 5x/week (two or three miles) before lifting. I gradually add interval training to the run. I am best at wrestling, second best at BJJ, and weakest with my stand up. Therefore, in part because of inefficiency with my boxing, I find that an excellent cardio workout. I think that skills with which were are most proficient (read efficient) are a bit more of a challenge to push ourselves with. So boxing rounds with a partner holding mitts does me wonders, again, in part as I am less skilled and efficient (and therefore get more fatigued) with those techniques.

One exercise I like for cardio, strength, and mental reasons, and is easy to do in your BJJ room, is carrying a partner on my back around the perimeter of the room. You can do this in rounds with a brief walking break (i.e., to keep moving). This gets my heart rate through the roof if your partner (or instructor) can push and motivate you. You can do this to mimic rounds in a match or do the aerobic-anaerobic mix with your partner or coach telling you when to jog and when to sprint.

Where To Practice

You should find a good wrestling club in your area or practice on the mats at your local high school. In most areas there are wrestling clubs so find. Another thing to do is find someone who was a trampoline, this is not good for moves dealing with leverage, but is a nice safe place to work on throws without getting hurt. This is also a good place to "Shadow Wrestle". That is, wrestle with an imaginary opponent. On the off season or when there are no wrestlers around, shadow wrestling can be crucial to help out with technique.

Wrestling Websites

ReferencesEdit :the wrestling megasite, has literally thousands of links and pictures., stickgrapplers rescources, the technique rescources :the rescources.(mostly advertising, but does have a list of the seven basic skills. :look on the bottom for a technique analysis. :some technique videos :you need to be a member and logged in to take full advantage of this tool, but it does list a lot of techniques and is good to jog your memory :lots of articles on coaching wrestling. will be very helpful. :realprowwrestling principles of wrestling :look on the bottom right for some articles by dan gable. :some coaching tips by dan gable :wrestling tips from dan gable :traing tips from dan gable :the wrestling forums. wrestling forums :real pro wrestling forums :pictures of amateur wrestling, there FAQ page says that you should email them about using the pictures. it would be great if somebody could do this.