Costume History/Crinoline

Crinoline

I. History A. 1840~1865 (ish) B. II. Men A. Hair Curly hair was the most popular. Fixed in many ways it was mostly slicked with perfumed macassar oil. Sideburns were still popular. The stovepipe top hat was in fashion for formal occasions while the short wide brimmed hat was worn for sport and outings. Neck wear ranged from bow ties, long ties, and cravats to string ties, ascots, and stocks. B. Bodies Tail coats and frock coats were popular during this time. For casual wear sack coats were worn. The collars diminished greatly in height from the thirties. Shoulders dropped to elongate the neck. Sleeves were kept tight. C. Legs Long tubular pants were the fashion for men. Shoes were kept small and unassuming. III. Women A. Hair Hair was kept close to the nape of the neck and in large masses. Women either wore bonnets or pinned small hats on their heads if they wore them at all. B. Bodies Neck lines varied a lot but generally stayed bellow the pit of the throat. The sloping shoulder was emphasized and the women’s figure emphasized to look especially feminine. Shawls became the outer garment of choice. C. Legs The crinoline period is so called for use of crinoline in making women’s skirts puff out. Crinoline is a fabric made of a mixture of horse hair (crin) and linen (lin). This fabric was used to make petticoats. Eventually so many layers were used that it was impossible to use more when W.S. Thomas perfected David Hough’s invention of the hoop skirt. People continued incorrectly to call the crinolines but they causing skirts to continue to travel outward. Causing women to look like bells. Slippers were fashionable for indoors well ankle boots were fashionable for street ware. Flats were fashionable at the beginning and heels came into fashion slowly.

Materials General clothing • Muslin • Lawn • Tarlatan • Gingham • Calico • Percale • Dimity • Merino • Grenadine • Flannel • Serge • Broadcloth Fancy clothing • Silk • Taffeta • Crepe • Brocade • Velvet • Grosgrain • Satin • Moiré Antique

Colors Men • Generally bright colors were avoided Women • Nothing was unused

Jewelry Men wore rings and cuff links. The also wore shirt studs. Women wore cameos, necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and large broaches. Lockets were also popular. semiprecious stones like turquoise and garnet were popular along with pearls.