Blender 3D: Noob to Pro/Model a Silver Goblet< Blender 3D: Noob to Pro
|Applicable Blender version: 2.75.|
At first glance, the goblet looks like it is composed of cylinders. However, while it is possible to model the goblet with a cylinder mesh, it is easier to make a goblet by using cubes. Cubes make the goblet faster to make and it makes fewer vertices to track. Now, lets start making the basic shape of the goblet.
Start with the default cube and go to Edit Mode ( ). Toggle off "limit selection to visible". Move to the side view ( ). Toggle to ortho view. Box select ( ) the top edges of the cube. Extrude ( → Regions) upward about one grid square. Hold down while extruding, for incremental movement, and press the to restrict movement to the Z-axis. This extrusion is called E1. Repeat 2 more times for extrusion 2 and 3 (E2 and E3).
Now Extrude a longer piece upwards, for the Goblet's stem, of 10 grid squares (E4). Next we will define the area for the 2 top knobs and the bottom of the glass by Extruding upwards 5 more times at 1 grid square each (E5-E9). Next do another upward Extrusion of about 10 grid squares (E10). This is the actual glass itself.
Inflate the GlassEdit
Now, let's begin to inflate the glass. First, clear all selections by hitting the. Make sure you are still in the side view ( ). Box select ( ) the bottom most cube (all 8 vertices, not just the bottom 4). Then expand it outward by scaling ( ), then pressing + to lock/prevent any scaling in height along the Z-axis and finally pressing to quadruple its size. Next, deselect all vertices ( ), select ( ) the 4th pair of vertices (E2), scale them ( ), lock scaling ( + ) and triple the vertices in size ( and ).
Do the same for E5 and E7 (the 7th and 9th pairs of vertices, respectively). Then expand ( and + ) the top, Goblet rectangle (E9 and E10) to 6 times its current size ( ).
Make the cup's interiorEdit
Last is the cup's interior. Once again, you should still be in the side view (). Box select ( ) the very top most vertices of the Goblet (E10). Once selected, get a better view by changing to 'Orbit Up' ( ). With the top surface selected, initiate an Extrusion ( ), followed by a termination with the . It will appear as if nothing has happened, but new, overlapping edges have been created and are now selected (this also creates E11). Next Scale ( ) the selected vertices to 4/5ths of the original size ( ). This creates the inside lip of the cup. Now, Extrude ( ) the interior lip, along the Z-axis ( ) downward ( ) to create the bottom interior of the Goblet (E12). Finish off by selecting all, and then a 'Remove Doubles' ( → Remove Doubles), for good measure. It should look something like this.
Note: For some reason, when I extruded the interior of the cup to -10, I would have a lip sticking out of the bottom of the cup when I applied the subsurf. To resolve this, I extruded to -9. I was also left with a space at the bottom of the cup (i.e. you could see all the way to the base of the goblet) so I selected the bottom most vertices, pressed F, extruded and hit ESC, merged, selected the center vertice and translated that down -1. This gave me a nice looking bottom for the cup.
Note: If the thickness of the vessel sides or bottom is too thin, the Goblets interior faces may 'bleed through', affecting the exterior of the Goblet when you apply a subsurf.
Noob Note: When you create the interior of the cup with .8, be sure to hit+ to restrict it to just the X and Y axis, or when you extrude your glass downwards by 10, it will go through the bottom of the glass
Noob Note: You may want to try modelling the inside/bottom of the Goblet (sim. to "Die Another Way" tutorial). Turning on "Occlude Background Geometry" () will be helpful, as it turns off the ability to see & select through the model. The button icon is that of a "ISO Cube" located with the 3 select mode buttons (4 dots, 2 lines, & a triangle) of the 3D Toolbar, in Edit Mode.
Pro Note: If you wish for a more detailed cup, extrude the bottom of the cup, then scale it by .2097. Then translate (in layman's terms, that's "grab") it .7181 along the negative Z axis (or -.7181 along the Z axis). Through the use of creasing and control loop-cuts, you can get a very nice goblet.
Smoothing and DefiningEdit
Time to take the mesh and turn it into a proper goblet. Add a subsurf level 2 (+ )to the mesh. Change to Object Mode ( ) and select the Set Smooth button under Links and Materials. The cube-looking mesh will now look like an object that was created from a cylinder. This has removed all our crisp edges, and our globlet is looking very unstable! Let's rectify things by flattening the bottom.
Noob Note: If your goblet has a bulge in it after applying the subsurf, go to Edit mode (), select all ( ), press , and select "Remove doubles". (If a menu for boolean operations appears when you hit the , then you're not in Edit mode; change immediately to Edit mode and try the again.)
Select the four edges that surround the small circle at the very bottom (the very lowest set of edges) and press+ to enable creasing. Now drag the mouse up and down to select the level of the crease. When you're satisfied, hit . Repeat the process for other edges you want to be sharp. I've turned on Draw Creases under Mesh Tools 1 to illustrate which edges have been creased (highlighted yellow) in this example.
That concludes the creation of the goblet. Save the scene for use in the lighting tutorial.
Note: Due to the vagueness of this tutorial I had problems trying to follow what was wanted. I got around it by bevelling the goblet (for the cup-edge/thickness), and then merging necessary vertex. Here is how it turned-out:
Note: I found that if you select the bottom 4 vertices and extrude them 2 times down along the Z-axis (-.5 twice) and then you select the bottom 8 vertices and scale by 1.5 along the X and Y axis ( -> Shift+Z -> 1.5) it makes for a more realistic looking goblet base.