Introduction to Crochet

Table of contentsEdit

Instructions for making this sea scarf can be found in this module.

Gallery of projectsEdit


Note: The following was imported from Wikiversity. These are materials that can be incorporated into the above pages.

Beginner's MaterialsEdit

  • fat yarn, cord or rope (fancy/frilly/loosely wound yarns are harder to keep track of)
  • large hook that is a suitable size for the yarn (you can generally find a suggested hook size on the yarn package)

Beginning crochet classes and books usually recommend a size H crochet hook and solid color acrylic yarn for practice. Acrylic is easy to work with and inexpensive.

Note: Don't waste your money on fancy yarns until you know what you want to make and how exactly you're going to do it!

Left vs. Right HandEdit

Crochet can be done with either the right hand or the left hand, with mirror image results. Most beginning crochet instructions and nearly all published patterns are made for right-handed people. So beginners who are able to learn the craft right-handed will find it easier to do so. Left-handers who want to use published patterns can translate the material for left-handed use or use software to translate it.

Things To Keep in MindEdit

Make note of which way you hook something. Over can give a different result from under. Do it the same way every time for even rows. Keeping an even tension on the yarn helps make the project come out neater. Don't pull it too tight- You probably have to poke the hook back through that hole later. Also, keep track of the number of stitches in a row. If you know how many stitches you should have, it's easier to find out if you missed one.

Gauge/TensionEdit

The way a crocheter holds yarn affects the size of the stitches and the overall size and density of a piece. In United States terminology this is called gauge, with reference to the stitches per square inch on a sample swatch. In British terminology this is called tension, with reference to the effect a tight or loose grip. These are two different ways of looking at the same issue.

Either way, it's important to be aware that professionally published designs will list a tension or gauge rating. Crocheters normally make a sample swatch of about 4" x 4" to test their work against the size requirements of the design. If your tension/gauge is looser than the design, then compensate by trying a slightly smaller hook. If yours is tighter than the design, then use a slightly larger hook. Continue experimenting until you obtain the correct gauge.

A slight difference of 5% or 10% could make the difference between a sweater that fits properly and one that cannot be worn. If your own gauge changes during the project, continue changing hooks to compensate. The same crocheter's tension may be different after a glass of wine or a tense conversation.

Thread or yarn weightEdit

The same design worked in three different weights of crochet thread. From left to right: size 3, size 10, size 20. A U.S. quarter is included for size comparison. Respective crochet hooks used: 3.5mm, 2 (U.S.), and 6 (U.S.).

Crochet yarn and thread is sold by "weight", which is a technical term that roughly refers to diameter. The same design can yield substantially different sizes depending on the weight selected. A beginning crocheter does best by following the recommended weight for a pattern.

The ChainEdit

A set of chain stitches.

The basic unit of crochet is the slip knot. If you pull the end of the yarn at the working edge of the unfinished project, you should be able to completely unravel it. Think of it as a huge, elaborate slip knot. To see how the basics of crochet work, you don't need to start with a hook. Mark one end of your rope. Make a slip knot. /*add a picture*/ Make a loop at the base of the slip knot using the marked end of the rope. /*add a picture*/ Pull this loop through the loop of the slip knot. /*add a picture*/ Make another loop with the marked end and pull it through the last loop you made. /*add a picture*/ Continue to do this a few more times until you have a chain that looks like a braid on one side. /*add a picture*/

Practice this until you can make a chain without any twists. You are now ready to do this with a hook.

Single CrochetEdit

Single crochet (worked left handed).

When working from a chain,insert hook in second chain from the hook. Yarn over, pull through the chain. Yarn over, pull through the other two loops on the hook. When working the second row, chain one, and insert hook in the first stich of the row. Yarn over, pull through the stich. Yarn over pull through the other two loops on the hook. The chain at the start of the row is called the turning chain

Video Stitch Guides: (Right-handed), (Left-handed)

Turning chainEdit

A turning chain for single crochet is a single chain stitch.

"Turning chain" gets its name because crocheters turn a piece of fabric over at the end of a row. When finishing one row and start another, it is necessary to build height before beginning the regular stitch for the new row. This is done with a turning chain, which is made from one or more chain stitches. For single crochet, a single chain stitch is normally enough for a turning chain.

Half double crochetEdit

A swatch of half double crochet.

DoubleEdit

Double crochet.

When working from a chain, yarn over. Insert hook into third chain from the hook. Yarn over. Pull through the chain stitch. Yarn over. Pull through the first two loops on the hook. Yarn over. Pull through the two remaining loops.

When working the second row, chain two, yarn over and insert hook in the second stitch of the row. Yarn over. Pull through the stitch. Yarn over. Pull through the first two loops on the hook. Yarn over. Pull through the two remaining loops

Video Stitch Guides: (Right-handed), (Left-handed)

Last modified on 15 September 2010, at 14:32