Dressmaking/Pants

On a long piece of paper about ( outseam + ( (4 " or 10.4 cm) ) ) long and ( seat + ( (6 " or 15.6 cm) ) ) wide, draw a line down the middle.

  1. Set up markers as follows :
Marker Instruction
0 Near the top, select a point and mark point 0 .
1 From 0 down to 1 is ( outseam - ( (1 " or 2.6 cm) ) ) .
2 From 1 up measure up inseam to 2 .
3 On 1-2 midway, mark 3 , 3 is midway between 1 and 2 ( ( inseam / 2 ) ).
4 From 3 is 2" (5.2 cm).
* Square out from points 0 , 2 , 4 , and 1 .
5 5 from 2 is ( seat / 5.5 ) .
6 6 from 2 is ( seat / 12 )
7 7 from 2 is ( seat / 12 )
8 Square up from 6 to locate 8 on line 0
9 Square out from 7 to locate 9 on line 6
10 10 from 9 is 0.25 " (0.6 cm)
Draw line 8 - 10 .
11 11 from 10 is ( seat / 4 )
12 12 from 8 is ( ( waist / 4 ) + ( (0.5 " or 1.3 cm) ) )
13 and 14 from 4 is ( knee_width / 2 )
14
15 15 and 16 from 1 is ( cuff_width / 2 )
16
17 17 from 1 is ( cuff_depth ? ( ( 3 * cuff_depth ) - ( (0.25 " or 0.6 cm) ) ) : ( (2 " or 5.2 cm) ) ) (allowance for the cuff (if any) is included in this measurement).
  1. Square out from 17 .
  2. The waist line form 8 is squared by line 8 - 10 until it is about 0.25 " (0.6 cm) below line 8 - 12 . Then it curves gently into 12 .
  3. The fly fall (front rise) follows the straight line 8 - 10 and then makes a shallow curve into 5
  4. Through 11 the outseam is vertical from about 1 " (2.6 cm) above to 0.5 " (1.3 cm) below. Continue upward, curving into 12 .
  5. Shape the leg, making the inseam and outseam vertical from the bottom to at least 2 " (5.2 cm) above 15 and 16 and identical to each other from the bottom to the knee.
  6. Above the knee the inseam is a natural continuation, waiting until almost the top to curve into 5 .
  7. The outseam also continues naturally above 14 , easing outward to meet the continuation downward from 11 .
  8. Add notches (for assembly) at the following points: 0 , 14 , 16 , 15 , and 13 .
  9. In the outseam, 1.5 " (3.9 cm) below the waist edge, and again 6.25 " (16.25 cm) below that (for the front pockets).
  10. In the fly fall about 1.5 " (3.9 cm) to 2.5 " (6.5 cm) from the inseam: Put the zero end of the tape measure 3/8 " (.97 cm) below the waist edge and measure along the fly fall 1/4 " (0.6 cm) in from the pattern outline.
  11. Cut the fly notch at the nearest whole inch, and that will be the length of your pants zipper.
Last modified on 13 March 2012, at 23:32